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Frequently Asked Questions

Summary

WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A COMMERCIAL AND RESIDENTIAL DISHWASHER?

Short answer:

They are completely different machines built for different duty cycles, temperatures, sanitizing requirements, and code compliance.

Feature Residential Commercial
Cycle Time 1–2 hours 1–2 minutes
Wash Water 120–140°F 150–160°F
Final Sanitize Optional Required by code
NSF Certified ❌ No ✅ Yes
Continuous Use ❌ No ✅ Yes
Health Dept Approved ❌ No ✅ Yes

Residential dishwashers cannot be used in commercial kitchens.

DO I NEED A COMMERCIAL DISHWASHER BY LAW?

Yes, if you:

  • Sell food to the public
  • Operate a restaurant, café, bar, school, hospital, commissary, or mobile food unit
  • Operate under a health permit

Health departments require:

  • NSF-certified warewashing equipment
  • Verified sanitization
  • Documented temp or ppm logs

WHAT SIZE DISHWASHER DO I NEED?

It depends on:

  • Dishes per peak hour
  • Tray vs plate service
  • Glassware volume
  • Rewash rates
  • Emergency backup expectations

General Sizing Guide:

  • Undercounter: 30–70 racks/hour
  • Door-Type: 70–150 racks/hour
  • Conveyor: 150–350 racks/hour
  • Flight-Type: 350+ racks/hour

Always size for peak meal—not daily average.

WHAT’S BETTER—HEAT OR CHEMICAL SANITIZING?

Heat (High-Temp)

Pros:

  • No chemical on dishes
  • Strong inspection preference
  • Lower long-term chemical cost
  • Kills grease better

Cons:

  • Requires booster heater
  • Higher electrical cost
  • Requires water softener

Chemical (Low-Temp)

Pros:

  • Lower electrical load
  • No booster heater
  • Lower upfront cost

Cons:

  • Continuous chemical cost
  • Requires constant ppm testing
  • Higher inspection risk
  • Chemical mixing failures possible

Hospitals, VA, schools, and correctional facilities usually require heat systems.

DO I NEED A BOOSTER HEATER?

Yes if:

  • You are using a high-temp (heat) dishwasher
  • You must reach 180°F at the dish surface

No if:

  • You are using a chemical (low-temp) system

Failure to install a properly sized booster heater is one of the top causes of failed inspections nationwide.

WHAT TEMPERATURE SHOULD A COMMERCIAL DISHWASHER REACH?

Heat Systems:

  • Final rinse must be 180°F at the dish surface

Chemical Systems:

  • Temperature varies, but sanitizer ppm must be verified with test strips

Any heat system running below 180°F fails inspection immediately.

WHAT CHEMICAL PPM IS REQUIRED?

Most health departments require:

  • Chlorine: 50–100 ppm
  • Quat: 200–400 ppm
  • Iodine: 12.5–25 ppm

Eyeballing sanitizer strength is not allowed.
Test strips must be present on site.

DO I STILL NEED A 3-COMP SINK IF I HAVE A DISHWASHER?

Yes—almost always.

3-comp sinks are required for:

  • Manual backup warewashing
  • Equipment too large for machines
  • Emergency situations
  • Pot and pan washing

WHY DOES MY GLASSWARE LOOK CLOUDY?

Top causes:

  • Hard water scale
  • No water softener
  • No carbon filtration
  • Detergent overuse
  • Low rinse temperature

Glasswashers almost always need water treatment to stay clear.

CAN I PUT EVERYTHING IN THE DISHWASHER?

Safe to wash:

  • Plates
  • Trays
  • Glasses (proper racks)
  • Utensils
  • Pots & pans (if rated)

Do not wash:

  • Cast iron
  • Wood
  • Fine crystal
  • Knives loosely
  • Non-heat-safe plastics

WHY DOES MY DISHWASHER KEEP FAILING INSPECTION?

Most common reasons:

  • Final rinse below 180°F
  • Sanitizer ppm not logged
  • No test strips on site
  • No air gaps on drains
  • Towel drying
  • Chemical storage violations
  • No documentation

DO FOOD TRUCKS NEED COMMERCIAL DISHWASHERS?

Yes—but usually through a licensed commissary.

Options:

  • Shared commercial dishroom
  • On-board 3-comp system (if approved)
  • Disposable ware backup

HOW MUCH DOES A COMMERCIAL DISHWASHER COST?

Typical equipment ranges:

  • Undercounter: $4,000–$9,000
  • Door-Type: $10,000–$25,000
  • Conveyor: $30,000–$75,000
  • Flight-Type: $80,000–$250,000+

Install costs vary widely based on:

  • Electrical
  • Plumbing
  • Hood
  • Drainage
  • Water treatment

DO COMMERCIAL DISHWASHERS USE A LOT OF WATER?

Modern machines are far more efficient than manual washing and older equipment.

Water use depends on:

  • Rack size
  • Rinse flow rate
  • Throughput
  • Leak prevention
  • Water reuse design

WHY DOES MY DISHWASHER SMELL?

Top causes:

  • Dirty floor drains
  • Pulper buildup
  • Scrap trough biofilm
  • Grease interceptor issues
  • Standing water
  • Poor ventilation

Odors usually indicate a drainage or waste failure—not a machine failure.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD A COMMERCIAL DISHWASHER BE DELIMED?

Depends on water hardness:

  • Soft water: Every 2–4 months
  • Moderate hardness: Monthly
  • Hard water: Every 2–3 weeks

Skipping deliming:

  • Kills booster heaters
  • Clogs spray arms
  • Voids warranties
  • Causes temp failures

HOW LONG SHOULD A COMMERCIAL DISHWASHER LAST?

With proper care:

  • Undercounter: 7–12 years
  • Door-Type: 10–15 years
  • Conveyor: 12–20 years
  • Flight-Type: 15–25+ years

Without water treatment or maintenance, that lifespan can be cut in half.

CAN I KEEP OPERATING IF MY DISHWASHER BREAKS?

Only if:

  • You have a working 3-comp sink
  • Sanitizer ppm is verified
  • Air drying is enforced
  • Emergency SOP is activated
  • Manager authorizes continued operation

Otherwise, food service must stop immediately.

STILL NOT SURE WHAT APPLIES TO YOUR KITCHEN?

  • Run the Dishwasher Selection Tool
  • Run the Utility Readiness Assessment
  • Request a Dishroom Consultation

Built by Aldevra, a Service-Disabled Veteran-Owned Small Business supporting federal agencies, healthcare systems, schools, food trucks, bars, and commercial kitchens nationwide with compliant, inspection-ready dishroom solutions.

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